If you have ever picked a runner bean and tasted it fresh from the vine, you’ll know that home grown runner beans are nothing like the shop bought versions.
Picked young, they are tender enough to be added raw to a salad and have a delightful taste and texture.
You may be surprised to learn that there are plenty of different varieties of runner beans, from traditional varieties such as Red Emperor and Enorma to dwarf varieties including Hestia.
Some are prized for more than their crop – Painted Lady has beautiful red and white flowers that bring extra colour to the summer garden.
Enorma
A twining climber reaching 3m with green leaves.
Scarlet flowers develop into 50cm long, smooth runner beans.
Painted Lady
‘Painted Lady’ is a dense, climbing perennial, often grown as an annual.
Red and white scented flowers appear in the summer, followed by medium-sized, tender pods throughout the summer
Hestia
This compact runner bean can easily be grown in larger pots, so even if you have a tiny garden, you can still produce a delicious crop of tasty, stringless pods.
It has an excellent resistance to diseases and even the bicoloured blooms are eye-catching.
Young runner bean plants are particularly susceptible to frost.
Usually they are planted outdoors in late May or early June, but even if you think the weather is warming up, keep an eye on weather reports and if there is any hint of frosts, protect the plants using bubble wrap or fleece, or bring indoors if possible.
If you’re using pots, plant just one baby runner bean plant per pot.
You’ll need a good sized 30-40cm pot as runner beans grow vigorously!
Use a good quality potting mix compost that is well-draining and add further compost for extra nutrients.
Plant the baby plant in the centre of the pot, to a depth of around 5cm and water well.
It’s a good idea to create a growing frame early on so you don’t disturb the roots later.
Pots are a better choice as runner beans are thirsty plants and grow bags are not always ideal for consistent watering.
However, if you choose to use a grow bag, opt for a large one, as the root system of runner beans is quite extensive.
Prior to planting, shake the grow bag and knead out any solid lumps.
Water well.
Plant one runner bean per grow bag and construct a suitable growing frame.
Runner beans are a staple of many veg patches!
Once you have prepared the soil by removing weeds and adding good quality garden compost or well-rotted manure, create your growing frame.
Choose tall bamboo canes to create a wigwam structure, or if you’re growing lots of plants make rows of canes that attach to a horizontal cane, making an ‘A’ frame.
Plant one young runner bean plants at the bottom of each cane and water well. Encourage them to grow up the cane by using ties while they get established.
These are thirsty plants, so make sure you water them regularly and don’t allow the soil to dry out.
This is particularly critical if you are growing in pots and grow bags.
You can add a mulch around ground-planted runner beans to help retain moisture.
Use a general liquid fertilizer during the early stages.
Once the flowers start forming, switch to a tomato fertilizer, which is high in potash.
These are tender plants that can be decimated by frost, so you’ll need to bring them on indoors, either in a heated greenhouse or a warm windowsill before planting out.
Choosing baby plants means they will be strong enough to successfully plant out once conditions are right, with a little hardening off.
You may get an earlier crop than if you’re starting your plants from seed.
Indoors: start off indoors from mid-April to May in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill.
Use small, deep pots or trays and sow just one bean into each.
Harden off and plant outside when the risk of frost has passed.
Outdoors: plant seeds directly into the ground or containers from mid to late-May once there is no risk of frost.
Plant two seeds at the base of each cane; once the seedlings appear, remove the weaker one.
Pests: Young runner beans are attractive to slugs and snails.
Black aphids are a common pest and will get out of hand if not controlled. Remove from the plant by hand or hose them off as soon as you spot them.
Disease: Look out for fungal disease and remove any affected plants.
Problems: Sometimes the flowers don’t set into runner bean pods.
This could be due to underwatering or your soil type.
Add lime if your soil is neutral or acidic.
Runner beans are usually ready to pick between three and four months after planting.
You may find the easiest way to decide is to pick one and see how it tastes.
Don’t leave runner beans for too long or they will become stringy – and who doesn’t remember stringy runner beans from their childhood?
Need more advice?
If you’re still unsure or need any advice, our friendly teams will be happy to chat with you and suggest which varieties would be best for you to plant, as well as when and where to plant them.
We hope you enjoy planting your runner beans– but more importantly, enjoy eating them!
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